My lunch with Gael Greene

I met the legendary New York food critic for lunch in NYC in May 2006, at Momofuku Noodle Bar. We made the date after I interviewed her for a story in The Commercial Appeal about her book "Insatiable", the first chapter about her close encounter with Elvis. Seems that fling-a-ding-ding help launch her food writing career.

This wasn't just any lunch, either. We were standing on line (to use the New Yorker verbage), and bumped into a few people I knew through the Southern Foodways Alliance and Calvin Trillin rode up on his bike. I flipped! Somebody, please take my pic with Calvin Trillin.

Turns out he was meeting Randy Fertel for lunch, I know Randy through SFA, his late mother launched a little steakhouse chain you might have heard of: Ruth's Chris. Randy is a tireless champion of preserving food stories in his support of an annual documentary made by the Southern Foodways Alliance. (I got to see behind-the-scenes action on the making of "Whole Hog" a couple of years ago, and thrill to see it premiere to a wildly appreciative audience at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley.)

So, long story long, we all sat together along the communal tables at Momofuku and shared nearly everything on the menu. Calvin Trillin gave me a bite of his ssam!! Hot damn! (Shameless fan alert!) Even the camera shy Ms. G agreed to have her pic taken with me. I can't imagine a more memorable meal.

Fast forward to last week when I found Gael Green's new Web site on Eater.com, and reached out. We chatted over email, and she asked me to submit a recipe. Up it went on one of her daily briefs. So cool this global village. Check out her site: insatiablecritic.com.

Here's a tease

.... to Friday's restaurant review. Maybe not the prettiest picture, but this was a spectacular meal, probably because it was such a surprise to find such sophisticated food at a casual neighborhood pub.

That duck confit salad was so delicious. The generous portion of poultry was super rich, succulent and under $12. The outstanding burgundy beef pot pie is based on a Julia Child recipe, the made-from-scratch sauce tasted as complex as the glass of Argentinean malbec I sipped with it.

Yes, that's PBR. Got a problem with that?

So, anybody care to guess where this haute low-brow fare is being served? No? Guess you'll have to pick up a P-I.

Today's dining column suggests a Diner's Bill of Rights. What do you say? When you go to a restaurant what do you expect from the waitstaff?

Cheap wine!

The venerable Eric Asimov serves up some fine selections of inexpensive wine in today's New York Times.

Love it.

It's a no-brainer to pick up a bottle of great $50, but it takes a true sleuth to come up with a cart full of affordable options. Cheers to Mr. A and his tasting crew.

Big Whine: The cranky wine guy at DeLaurenti

I was wandering the wine department at my favorite deli in Seattle, and while getting my purchases rung up. I asked Mr. Wine Guy what was his favorite Washington red under $20.

I'm sure I can't say. There are 400 wineries in the state now, it would be impossible to pick just one, he said curtly.

He could have said: Well, what do you like, a merlot? A cab? Something from Walla Walla? He blew the chance to engage a curious customer. Totally shut down the conversation. Freaking snob. That's exactly what I cannot stand about the elitist wine set. (To be fair, the much younger guy who I talked with earlier was very friendly and helpful. I don't understand what you're doing in retail if you're not about doing some selling.)

Oh, and by the way, Mr. Wine Guy, there are now 500 wineries in Washington state. And my favorite red under $20 is the Chinook cab franc.

Ooh, la la: brunch at Cafe Presse

Met some friends at this south Capitol Hill spot, just ahead of the rush hour. Very happy with the croque Madame, the classic ham and cheese sandwich all bubbling hot and a fried egg on top.

Our table shared an order of excellent pomme frites and pain au chocolat. Everything was great, except -- and this is a big except -- they kept running out of coffee. Even the server acknowledged: "We're having a bit of a coffee crisis." Hmmm. No coffee on a Sunday morning. Major bummer.

If only Stumptown Roasters were open next door, like they said they would be, last Monday. Those Portland, Ore., bean counters should be perking right along soon. I'm still shopping around for my favorite baristas in town. Any hot spots I absolutely shouldn't miss?

Hey Adam, have I got an apple for you!

It's been ages since I got excited about an apple. I've given into temptation, seduced by the way a Fuji or a Braeburn or, yes, even a Red Delicious looks and then, yuck, it's all soft and mushy. Or, worse, it tastes like cardboard.

But a friend tipped me off about his infatuation with the Honey Crisp. Oh, Honey, where have you been all my life?

I snagged a bag of these grown-in-the-Okanogan beauties last night and could hardly believe it when I took my first bite. Snap! It was everything I hoped for and more.

Of course, the prices are kind of ridick... like $5 at pound at Whole Food, or $3 at Met Market. Maybe I need to make a hunter/gatherer trip to the East side of the state and stock up on some at the source.

Now, if I could only find some peaches that weren't rock hard.

Oh waiter, there's a fly in my cocktail

Went to Qube last night for the "New Urban Drinks" (one cocktail, two small plates, $15) and the service was horrendous. I was willing to cut the busy bartender some slack, this was obviously a management decision not to properly staff. Our table had to constantly flag the guy down. Can we please order? Somebody didn't get their second plate. And then...

When I pointed out the dead fly, the bartender made a face like: Ewwww!

But he did nothing about it. He didn't come back and whisk it away with a bleach-y rag. Nor send anyone on bug patrol. HELL-OOOOOO! This is a classy place, right? What in the heck is going on?

I've had some shaky service in Seattle, but this is a new low. Send me your service horror stories. I'm working on a possible story. I'm also up for the other side of the story. I know it's a very difficult job and I tip generously when I find the (rare?) good server.